Elie Saab’s couture escapism finds a new edge in Paris

(29 Jan 2025)
ASSOCIATED PRESS
Paris – 29 January 2025
1. Medium Ellie Bamber
2. Medium Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
3. Various Poppy Delevingne
4. Medium Adèle Simphal
5. Various Eva Longoria
6. Medium Mo Al Turk
7. Wide shot Eva Longoria talks to reporters
8. Medium Nievez Alvarez
9. Close up Hande Ercel
10. Medium Tamara Kalinic
11. Various, Elie Saab catwalk
12. Various, bridal gown
13. Wide shot Elie Saab on catwalk
14. SOUNDBITE (English) Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press:
"The sounds of spring, chirping birds, trickling brooks and soft harp melodies set a tranquil yet opulent scene at Elie Saab’s latest couture spectacle inside the lofty halls of the Palais de Tokyo. A red carpet favorite, Saab delivered his signature grandeur but with a fresh architectural edge this season. Eva Longoria joined a starry crowd as gowns took on sculptural drama, exaggerated shoulders and hips forming a striking exoskeleton-like silhouette. Saab’s signature sparkle remained, now infused with feathered embroidery that mimicked lush foliage, floor length gowns dripping in jewels, evoking the roaring glamour of ‘The Great Gatsby,’ making this one of the most quintessentially couture moments of the season. Pure fantasy, precision and undeniable Saab."

AP VIDEO SHOT BY: Adam Egan
PRODUCTION: Cristina Jaleru
STORYLINE:
The sounds of spring, with babbling brooks and birdsong, set a serene yet surreal tone Wednesday as Elie Saab unveiled his latest couture collection inside the soaring Palais de Tokyo in Paris. It was punctuated only by whoops and clicking camera shutters as Eva Longoria swept in.

While the setting evoked pastoral bliss, the collection was a study in high-drama couture, as Saab’s signature opulence met a new architectural precision.

This season, the Lebanese designer, a red carpet mainstay, tempered his signature cascades of embroidery with an almost armor-like structure. Sweeping architectural flourishes curved around shoulders and hips, recalling the grandeur of Art Deco but with a modern sheen. Geometric bands of sparkles reinforced the sculptural intent, carving out silhouettes that felt more commanding than Saab’s typical fluid romance.

Models emerged on three parallel runways framed by classical white arches, wearing gowns dripping with jewels and embroidered feathers that echoed foliage. The effect was cinematic, an invitation into a world of 1920s glamour — Gatsby decadence reimagined with Saab’s unerring eye for fantasy. But in a world of uncertainty, the excess took on a different weight, a reminder that fashion has long been a glittering escape from reality.

Saab’s touchstone aesthetic — luxurious embellishment, silhouette-flattering cuts and red carpet allure — was intact, but there was an added sense of structure, a couture boldness that gave the collection its edge. The designer has never strayed far from his core of femininity and grandeur, yet here was a whisper of something stronger: a woman draped in fantasy, but armored for the future.

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