France’s passion for cheese hasn’t changed, but eating habits have

(10 Jul 2024)
RESTRICTION SUMMARY:

ASSOCIATED PRESS
Paris – 21 June 2024
1. Wide of Fromagerie Quatrehomme, a prestigious cheese shop in Paris
2. Tilt down of cheese cabinet
3. SOUNDBITE (English) Nathalie Quatrehomme, owner, Fromagerie Quatrehomme:
++SOUNDBITE FULLY COVERED++
“In France, you have a really, really great diversity of different cheese: goat, sheep, cow, with different kinds of paste. You have washed rind, you have all the lactic cheese, you have all the Tomme, you have all the blue. You really have all the different cheese that you are thinking of are present in France.”
4. Various of cheeses
5. SOUNDBITE (English) Nathalie Quatrehomme, owner, Fromagerie Quatrehomme:
++SOUNDBITE PARTIALLY COVERED++
“I think traditionally you have a cheese plate after the main course and before dessert. This is the traditional way of having a cheese plate in France. But I think this traditional way is evolving. Now you can have all cheese and meat course, you can have cheese in an appetizer and not after the main course. You can have cheese at breakfast. We really changed the way of eating cheese."
6. Various of cheeses being prepared
7. Close of cheeses on display
8. SOUNDBITE (French) vox pop, customer, name not given:
++SOUNDBITE PARTIALLY COVERED++
"French cheeses are the best, I assure you, Madam. They have flavor. They have a very soft, creamy texture so obviously we want to eat them every day."
9. Various of store
STORYLINE:
Cheese covers every table and shelf in Fromagerie Quatrehomme.

This prestigious shop has been selling its wares to Parisians for more than 70 years, and remains in the hands of the same family that opened it in the 1950s.

France makes around 1,200 types of cheeses.

And this shop sells around 300 of them, from the conical Boulette d’Avesnes made with cows milk in northern France, to a whole variety of goats cheeses from the Loire Valley, the Alps and other regions.

Cheese is big business in France. It exported $3.76 billion worth of the stuff in 2022 and imported $2.8 billion worth, according to the OEC.

According to the French Dairy Board, the CNIEL, the dairy industry as a whole accounts for almost 300,000 jobs. The average French person buys 12.5 kilos of cheese a year.

But how they eat that cheese is starting to change.

“I think traditionally you have a cheese plate after the main course and before dessert. This is the traditional way of having a cheese plate in France,” says shop owner Nathalie Quatrehomme.

“But I think this traditional way is evolving. Now you can have all cheese and meat course, you can have cheese in an appetizer and not after the main course. You can have cheese at breakfast. We really changed the way of eating cheese and that’s nice.”

And Parisians know what they want: French cheeses.

"French cheeses are the best, I assure you, Madam. They have flavour. They have a very soft, creamy texture so obviously we want to eat them every day," says another customer.

"It’s every day, either at 12 p.m. or in the evening, in the evening with a green salad and at 12 p.m. after a good meal I have it with good Bordeaux," she adds.

Four generations of the same family have sold cheese here.

And they plan on supplying Paris with all the Comte, Brie and Roquefort it wants for many more generations to come.

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